From Dgwoks Collection

 

5 reasons watch collectors love Richard Mille

Founded on technical innovation, artistry and a culture of fine watchmaking, Richard Mille has become a dominant player in the watch industry. Christie’s explains why

In the world of Swiss watchmaking, tradition often rules the day. Brands such as Patek Philippe and Rolex are often viewed as the kings of the mountain, both at retail and at auction, yet a new breed of watchmaker is shaking up the established order. In the vanguard of this new group is the independent watchmaker Richard Mille, which makes futuristic watches regarded in many quarters as the ultimate expression of wealth.

• 1
• The watchmaking

Richard Mille established his eponymous brand in 1999 with the backing of Audemars Piguet and its legendary development company, Renaud et Papi. The mission was to push high-end, hand-made watchmaking to the very limits of technical innovation. 

Two years later the Richard Mille RM001 was launched, featuring no gold, diamonds or precious stones — just exceptional engineering. The price tag? A cool €159,000. The entire production run of 80 units sold out almost immediately.

The prototype RM056 (above), which sold for £1.2 million at Christie’s in 2017, contains probably the most complicated movement to have featured in a Richard Mille watch to date — one that it shares with the RM008 (below), which was the first reference that paired a split-seconds chronograph and a tourbillon mechanism.

• CMMdesign

The size and shape of a Richard Mille watch is instantly recognisable, even from a distance. Inspired by automotive design, the aesthetic is unapologetically bold and, according to Forbes, acquiring a Richard Mille watch is the equivalent of ‘buying a miniature sports car for the wrist’. As Mille himself has said, ‘I want people who see my watches to go, “Wow”!’ 

Richard Mille. An extremely rare carbon limited edition tonneau-shaped skeletonised split seconds chronograph wristwatch with power reserve and torque indicators. Signed Richard Mille, Felipe Massa model, ref. rm004, circa 2015. Estimate: HK$2,000,000-3,000,000. Offered in IMPORTANT WATCHES Including The Titanium Collection and an Important Private Asian Collection Part 3 on 13 July 2020 at Christie’s in Hong Kong

Richard Mille. A unique 18k white gold and white ceramic rectangular sekeltonised tourbillon wristwatch with power reserve and function selector. Signed Richard Mille, tourbillon extra flat model, ref. rm017, circa 2017. Estimate: HK$2,400,000-3,500,000. Offered in IMPORTANT WATCHES Including The Titanium Collection and an Important Private Asian Collection Part 3 on 13 July 2020 at Christie’s in Hong Kong

• 3
• The scarcity

Fewer than 5,000 Richard Mille watches are made annually. For a young brand, this is a relatively high number of pieces, yet demand for the watches consistently outstrips production. Strong prices at auction continue to reflect this trend.

Richard Mille. A highly attractive, very fine and extremely rare white ceramic and 18k pink gold limited edition tonneau-shaped skeletonised tourbillon wristwatch, signed Richard Mille, no.01/06, ref. RM52-01, case no.28, circa 2015. 42.7 mm wide, 50 mm overall length, signed. Sold for HK$5,285,000 on 27 May 2019 at Christie’s in Hong Kong

The RM52 Tourbillon Skull (shown above) is an exceedingly rare example – it is number ‘01’ of just six examples made in white ceramic and 18k pink gold especially for the Asian market.

• 4
• The comfort

When you try on a seemingly bulky Richard Mille reference RM 50-3 McLaren F1 split-seconds tourbillon chronograph, the first thing you notice is the weight. At just 1.41 ounces (40 grams), it seems to defy physics with its solid construction and featherweight feel. To produce this revolutionary watch and case, Richard Mille worked with the University of Manchester and McLaren-Honda, both known for their research and expertise in lightweight materials.

• 5
• The statement
  
  

Nicknamed the ‘billionaire’s handshake’, Richard Mille watches adorn wrists within the most exclusive circles. The brand reinforces this message by partnering with ambassadors such as Felipe Massa, the former Formula One driver, and Rafael Nadal, the tennis champion, among them. 

Mille developed the RM006 tourbillon for Massa in 2004. The watch, which weighs little more than a credit card, is capable of resisting shocks up to 500G. Massa was wearing an RM006 when his car crashed into a tyre barrier ahead of the 2009 Hungary Grand Prix. The Brazilian driver suffered serious head injuries; the watch emerged unscathed.

For Nadal, Mille wanted to develop a watch he could wear during matches. The Spaniard broke five prototypes before the RM027, which weighed just 20 grams, was finalised. He was wearing the watch when he won his first US Open tournament — and the 9th grand slam title of his career — in 2010.

In addition, American golfer Bubba Watson wore a Richard Mille while winning the 2012 Masters tournament at Augusta National, and the Jamaican sprinter Yohan Blake wore a watch in green, gold and black during the Olympic Games in London.